“Hey, Scott,” I called to him. “Come over and sit a spell.”

He sauntered over, a little damp around the edges, and flopped down in the chair.

“You look as if you could us a little pick-me-up.”

I stood and walked over to the Moringa tree and stripped off a handful of leaves. I quickly rinsed them in the bucket of water I keep for washing off any of the little nasties lurking to cause havoc with my health. I walked back over and handed them to him.

“Scott, eat these and you will be scampering around faster than a skinny cat in a barn full of fat mice.”

I never thought I would be eating a tree or sharing my tree meal with a neighbor, who by the way, I haven’t seen in a while. Anyway, my neighbor may not appreciate all the nutrient-rich, tasty bits of the Moringa tree, but maybe you will.

Moringa is often called the Drumstick Tree and is referred to as the “tree of life” or the “miracle tree” because all parts of it are edible, and not just if your are starving. Moringa is tasty.

The Moringa tree is loaded with valuable nutrients that may replace some of the over-the-counter supplements. According to Webmd.com, “the leaves have about as much potassium as a banana, and about the same amount of vitamin C as an orange. It also has calcium, protein, iron and amino acids, which help your body heal and build muscle. It’s also packed with antioxidants, substances that can protect cells from damage and may boost your immune system. There’s some evidence that some of these antioxidants can also lower blood pressure and reduce fat in the blood and body.”

Interested in eating a tree now?

The great news is that Moringa is easy to grow in Hawaiʻi. The tree is fast growing. It may easily be 10-feet tall at the end of the first growing season. With appropriate pruning it doesn’t require much space. Keeping the tree pruned also keeps the leaves, flowers and fruits within easy reach. 

Moringa can be started from seed or cuttings. My recommendation is to propagate from cuttings. The success rate is higher, and you have several months head start on seed propagation. The simplest and cheapest way to get cuttings is from a local Master Gardener. They don’t always have cuttings available, but they probably can tell you where to find them. You can also check with the local garden shops. They may have Moringa trees for sale.

Whether starting from seed or cutting, it is important to prepare the grow site properly. Moringa likes sun, lots of sun. The Moringa root system grows both down and sideways. Prepare the planting site at least 12 inches deep and 3 feet across. This not only loosens the soil, but it also removes competing growth from grasses and weeds.

Moringa is not picky about the soil but will not do well in dense soils that hold excess water. If you want the tree to flourish, prepare the growing area with sandy, nutrient rich and well-drained soil. Adding compost into the soil and top dressing the soil with mulch around the tree is one way to add nutrients to the soil without using chemical fertilizers and lighten dense soils.

Starting from seeds is not difficult. However, the seed germination rate is related to the age of the seed. The time between seed harvesting and planting may be the determining factor of success. When you plant, prepare the soil the same as if you were planting a cutting. The seeds should be buried a half-inch deep. Plant about five seeds a couple inches apart. Keep the soil moist. After germination, keep the healthiest sprout. Because of Moringa’s long tap root, it doesn’t transplant easily. Otherwise, remove and discard the weaker seedlings. 

With so many microclimates in Hawaiʻi, making watering recommendations is difficult. Moringa is drought tolerant and doesn’t like to have its roots sloshing in water. Too much water is the main culprit that will damage the tree. This is why the sandy, well-drained soil is so critical for keeping the Moringa tree disease free.

During summer when we get less rain, water deeply, as needed, and allow the plant to absorb the moisture before watering again. During the winter, water as needed for your specific locale. Remember: Moringa does not like wet feet.

Moringa will need a snack now and then. It likes nutrient-rich mulch and compost. Loosen the topsoil carefully with a garden rake to avoid damaging the roots. Work the compost into the loose soil. Spread the mulch on top of the compost, around the stem of the tree but avoid mulch touching the tree trunk. This will keep your Moringa tree happy and healthy.

If all goes well, you should be able to begin harvesting leaves from the tree in about six to eight months. When the tree flowers, they are edible. You can leave them, and bean pods will form. The bean pods can be harvested when they are soft and immature or allowed to grow a fibrous pod shell before harvest.

Each part of the tree has a distinctive taste. Now, how it tastes to me, and how it tastes to you may not be the same. The leaves are somewhat spicy, not unlike a mild radish. Since my cooking skills are abysmal, I eat them raw. Although, I have been told that they hold up well when cooked. I like to toss them into a green salad to add a bit of zip. If I am feeling adventurous, I toss in a few Moringa flowers.

The Moringa seed is inside a pod that resembles a bean pod. You won’t have any difficulty identifying them on the tree. When you crack open the mature pod, the seed is a dark tan with a frilly, white ring around it. This part can be removed or eaten, your choice. Caveat: Moringa seeds can have a laxative effect. Don’t eat too many directly from the pod until your body becomes accustomed to them. Yes, they are tasty, but guess what will happen next.

To my palate, the first crunch is sweet, but as I chew there is a secondary taste that I can’t quite describe. It isn’t bad, just very different from the initial taste.

 I have heard, but never tried, to pop the beans like popcorn. If anyone tries it, let me know if this is fact or urban legend.

The seeds can be dried for storage. Once dried, they can be powdered later for cooking use. I am told that they are delicious additions in teas, soups and sauces. They didn’t offer Home Economics classes where I attended school. Before I got married, I lived on fast food and chocolate chip cookies. I am allowed in the kitchen to do dishes, but never cook. I am not the person you want to ask for advice on preparing Moringa recipes.

I can’t speak directly to the taste of Moringa stem, or root. All parts of the tree are edible. I have looked at many web sites that offer suggestions about taste and use. I am counting on you to let me know. Recipes are welcome, too. I will pass them on to my wife.

I am not a medical professional. Yet, many ask about detailed health related attributes of Moringa. The best answer I can give is to refer you to reputable web sites for the information:

• Memorial Kettering Sloan Cancer Center
• National Library of Medicine: Moringa oleifera: a food plant with multiple medicinal uses – PubMed (nih.gov)
• National Library of Medicine: Moringa oleifera is a Prominent Source of Nutrients with Potential Health Benefits – PMC (nih.gov)

I think you have enough information to grow a Moringa tree.

Now, I can’t wait for the grandkids to arrive for supper. When they turn up their noses at the Moringa meal, I will say: “Listen to me, you pre-pubescent ankle biters. You are not leaving the table until you finish eating your tree.”

References:

• Anwar F, Latif S, Ashraf M, Gilani AH. Moringa oleifera: A Food Plant with Multiple Medicinal Uses. National Center for Biotechnology Information.
• Pareek A, Pant M, Gupta MM, Kashania P, Ratan Y, Jain V, Pareek A, Chuturgoon AA.Moringa oleifera: An Updated Comprehensive Review of Its Pharmacological Activities, Ethnomedicinal, Phytopharmaceutical Formulation, Clinical, Phytochemical, and Toxicological Aspects. Int J Mol Sci. 2023 Jan 20;24(3):2098. doi: 10.3390/ijms24032098. PMID: 36768420; PMCID: PMC9916933.https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9916933/ 
• Sears, Cory. 2022. How to Grow and Care for Moringa. The Spruce.
• Wigiton, Keri. 2023. Health Benefits of Moringa. WebMd.
• Wunderlin, R. P., B. F. Hansen, A. R. Franck, and F. B. Essig. 2023. Atlas of Florida Plants S. M. Landry and K. N. Campbell, USF Water Institute. Institute for Systematic Botany, University of South Florida, Tampa.

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• Is my tomato a hypochondriac? Or is it really sick?
• When planting papaya seeds, best to read the directions
• Are you smarter than a rose beetle? Can you outrun a snail?
• The evil web of an avocado lace bug
• Getting under the skin of bulb onions
• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

A friend asked what is the topic for this week’s gardening article. I said: “Tomatoes.”

He replied: “It is going to be hard to find something witty to say about tomatoes.”

I gave him my glare stare of astonishment: “Not so, Grasshopper. When you finish this article, you will know the difference between knowledge and wisdom.”

Tomatoes belong to the ominous plant group called nightshades (Solanaceae). Sounds like they could kill you before you finish your salad. Sadly, tomatoes are subject to so many diseases that I think they may have suicidal tendencies. But with a little TLC, they will survive nicely until you rip them from the plant and chop them up for salsa.

Where you live on the island can increase tomatoes’ susceptibility to diseases and death. Of course, you could move to Iowa to solve some tomato problems. No? Then you should buy disease resistant tomato seeds.

I can’t tell you which seed companies have resistance to common diseases. Look for the following abbreviations on the seed packet or website: A-anthracnose, EB-early blight, LB-late blight, F-fusarium wilt, PM-powdery mildew, TMV-Tobacco Mosaic Virus, TSWV-Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus and TYLCV-Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus. For a complete list of tomato diseases from Cornell University, click here. 

Before going to bed, I close the windows in case it rains. These are gardening tips comparable to closing the windows:

• Buy seeds that are resistant to common diseases.
• Plant in well-drained soil.
• Space tomato plants about 3 feet apart.
• Trellis and prune the plant to improve good air circulation.
• When watering, do not get water on the leaves.
• Keep the growing area clean of leaf debris.
• At first appearance of disease, remove and destroy infected leaves being careful not to touch healthy leaves.
• Next planting, rotate a non-Solanaceae plant where tomatoes are growing this year.

Doing these things reduces the chances that you will have to deal with a tomato disease.

You did everything right, and your tomatoes are looking sickly. Do they just need a snack or are they victims of a nasty little virus, mold, fungus or mildew? Take a picture of the infected part of the plant and compare it with a picture of a documented diseased plant. This isn’t a 100% guarantee of a correct diagnosis, but usually it is fairly accurate. Caveat: some diseases look alike and are hard to tell apart. Don’t be reluctant to contact a local Extension Agent or Master Gardener for a second opinion.

Anthracnose

This is a soil-borne disease that doesn’t appear until the fruit begins to ripen. A small, round sunken spot that may be pinkish or white in color often darkens as it increases in size on the fruit. Once infected, the fruit is inedible unless you are a bird or rat. 

The entire plant, roots, leaves, blossoms and fruit need to be removed and destroyed. Before planting anything again, treat the soil with a fungicide following the product’s directions. Increasing air flow and reducing ambient moisture may help.

Late blight

This is almost always a fatal disease that usually occurs during the cool, rainy months. It appears suddenly and kills quickly. Once it is established there is little you can do but destroy the plant. This is the same species which caused the Irish Potato Famine.

Late Blight usually appears on the upper, newer leaves as brown lesions. The lesions quickly spread, causing leaf distortion, followed by yellowing, shriveling and death. It can kill a tomato plant in a few days.

Don’t let the infected plant remain in your garden. Late blight spreads quickly and via water, too. Remove the entire plant, bag it and throw it in the garbage.

Early blight

This is less serious than Late Blight and is not likely to kill the plant if identified and immediately treated. Early Blight appears first on the lower leaves as dark brown spots. If you look closely, you will notice the spot is a series of concentric circles. The spot will grow and kill the leaf. Remove the dead and dying leaves immediately. Be careful not to touch any healthy leaves with the infected leaf or your hands once you have touched an infected leaf. Dispose of the infected leaves in the garbage. 

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, mix a heaping teaspoon of baking soda, teaspoon of olive oil and teaspoon of mild soap mixed with a gallon of water and spray the entire plant. This helps slow the spread of the disease. The most effective treatment is to spray the plant with copper fungicide. Always follow the directions.

Powdery mildew

Because of the high humidity and frequent rain, Powdery Mildew is common in Hawaiʻi. The good news is that powdery mildew doesn’t kill the plant. It does, however, affect the plant’s health and growth.

When it appears, immediately remove the affected leaves, but never more than 1/3 of the total leaf growth. Treat with Neem Oil, potassium bicarbonate or sulfur. All are organic treatments. These products should be available locally. Apply at first sign of Powdery Mildew following the manufacturer’s directions. 

Blossom end rot

This may appear to be a disease, but it is not. I include it because it is often mistaken as a disease. Blossom End Rot is the result of calcium deficiency. The tomato fruit develops decayed spots at the end away from where the fruit is attached to the stem.

End Rot is easy to prevent with mulch, compost and proper fertilization with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10). I also use crushed eggshells to add calcium to the soil. However, these can attract slugs and snails. It is advisable to wrap the bottom 4 inches of the stem with a copper foil first to repel slugs and snails.

Tomato yellow leaf curl

The plants with tomato yellow leaf curl have a stunted appearance. The new leaves are smaller in size, wrinkled with yellow between the veins. The leaf edge curls upward. Flowers may appear but usually will drop before fruit is set.

Whiteflies transmit the TYLC. Whiteflies are found on the underside of the leaves. They can be washed off with a garden hose or sprayed with an insecticidal soap or Neem Oil. Remove any infected leaves immediately and put them in the garbage. If the entire plant becomes infected, remove it, bag it and put it in the garbage.

Tomato spotted wilt virus

Small brownish ringspots appear on the leaves. As they become more numerous the leaves may appear to be bronzed. The leaves may also have a purple color and roll up. The disease causes the plant to be stunted.

The tomato fruit is the clearest indicator with its yellow ringspots. TSWV is transmitted by thrips (insects), which are small and difficult to see clearly without a magnifying glass. They can be controlled with Neem Oil or Insecticidal Soap. A silver reflective mulch effectively repel thrips. 

Bacterial wilt

This disease is distinguished by the foliage of the entire plant suddenly wilting, but the leaves stay green. A pathogen in the soil enters through the roots and moves quickly up the stem of the plant.

The result is a blockage that prevents water from reaching the leaves. Poor soil drainage and high pH, alkaline soil are the main causes. To verify, cut a stem near the ground. Split it. The interior is dark, and water soaked, or in some cases the stem is hollow. Unfortunately, there is no cure for Bacterial Wilt, although there are a handful of varieties which are resistant. Remove the plant and dispose of it.

There are many more tomato diseases that I didn’t cover. If your plant has symptoms that you can’t identify, take a photo and send it to your local Master Gardener Help Desk or Extension Agent. 

Now, Grasshopper, the answer: knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit; wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

I do not use AI to write my articles. I don’t need a computer’s help to make errors; I manage to do that on my own. The information in this article has been reviewed for accuracy before publication.

References:

• Ebesu, Richard. 2004. Home Garden Tomato HGV-5, CTAHR, University of Hawaii.
• Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus. 2023. Clemson University
• Home & Garden Information Center. 2023. Powdery Mildew. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Clemson University.
• McGrath, Margaret. 2023. Early Blight on Tomatoes. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences.
• Cornell University.
• McGrath, Margaret. 2023. Late Blight on Tomatoes. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. Cornell University.
• Tomato Plant Diseases and How to Stop Them. USDA. 2016.
• Schuh, Marissa and Grabowski, Michelle. 2023. Early Blight in Tomato and Potato. University of Minnesota.
• Gabor, Brad. 1997. Tomato Disease Guide. Siminis Vegetable Seed Co. 
• Radford, Joanna. 2020. Tomato Blossom-End Rot. North Carolina Cooperative Extension, North Carolina University.
• Melzer, Michael, et. al. 2020. Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl. University of Hawaii.
• Nelson, Scot. 2013. Powdery Mildew of Garden Vegetables in Hawai‘i.
• Baessler. Liz. 2023. Tomato Anthracnose Information: Learn About Anthracnose of Tomato Plants. Gardening Know How.

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• When planting papaya seeds, best to read the directions
• Are you smarter than a rose beetle? Can you outrun a snail?
• The evil web of an avocado lace bug
• Getting under the skin of bulb onions
• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I was planting papaya seeds when my wife stopped me: “Did you read the directions?”

Flashing my best, 32-tooth smile, I held up the seed packet and told her: “I looked at the picture. You know what they say, ‘A picture is worth a thousand words.’”

I got a withering look as she walked away without a word. 

The months passed and the papaya grew. The fruit was small; the leaves were wilted; and taking up permanent residence in my yard were Parrots of Paradise, what I call the green feathered critters that feast on my papaya.

I pulled out the seed packet. My papaya looked nothing like the healthy trees pictured on the packet. As cruel fate would have it, my wife saw me staring at the papaya picture.

“Apparently, your picture was written in a language that you don’t speak. Why don’t you look on the back,” she said as she grabbed the packet and flipped it over. “Well, bless my soul, it is in English and its only 100 words.”

She tapped me authoritatively on the shoulder: “Read them, next time.”

Most gardeners do read the directions. It is just that the all the relevant directions are seldom found in one place. Papaya often seems simple to grow until it isn’t. That is when you find that papaya seems to be a magnet for problems — and many papaya problems are the grower’s fault and can be avoided.

As my wife constantly reminds me, “If you had read and followed the directions, you wouldn’t be dealing with this now.” 

So here are the directions I should have read, and some tips, that may help you avoid many papaya problems.

Direction 1. Buy good seeds. The U of H Seed Lab offers three varieties that perform well in Hawaiʻi’s climate. The Sunset, Sunrise and Low-bearing papaya share similar planting, watering, fertilizing and harvesting characteristics. The choice is a matter of taste, size and shelf life.

Direction 2. Papaya requires a lot of sun and fresh air. When planting papaya, leave at least 6 feet between another papaya, building, tree or anything else that restricts light and air flow. A little-known fact about papaya is that it does best below 500 feet elevation. If you want to find the elevation of your property, click the following link https://whatismyelevation.com/. If you are at a higher elevation, you may still be able to grow papaya, but you may experience blossom drop, i.e., the plant flowers and then falls off without setting fruit. If fruit does develop, it is likely to be smaller in size.

Direction 3. I have said this repeatedly, your garden is only as good as your soil. Papaya will grow in most types of soil, but healthy plants and tasty fruit are the product of good soil. A sandy loam mix, rich in organic matter that drains well is best. The papaya plant has a shallow root system. When you plant, prepare the soil horizontally as well as vertically. 

Direction 4. Papaya is a water hog. It needs 40 to 60 inches per year. There is no magic formula since soil conditions and rainfall are too variable. Depending on where you live and the papaya variety, you may need to water every day, every couple of days, or never if you live in a rainy area. Papaya does not like too much water. This is why Direction 3 is so important. Leaf and blossom drop is a sign of too much or too little water.

Direction 5. Papaya has three sexual types: female, male and hermaphrodite (both male and female). Male trees have flowers that are on stems that extend from the main trunk of the tree. Female and hermaphrodite trees have flowers that are tight to the main stem. The hermaphrodite plant is the preferred since it has both male and female characteristics in the same flower and will self-pollinate. Most home gardeners remove the male plant.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MG054 

Direction 6. Fertilize regularly once the plant is over a foot tall. Most sources recommend using a balanced fertilizer (14-14-14) every two weeks until the plant is 7 months old, and then fertilize once a month.

Direction 7. Harvest the fruit when the first patch of yellow appears. Pick it and let it finish ripening in the house. In my opinion, this gives a superior taste to the fruit. It also removes the fruit before the fruit flies and the Parrots of Paradise show up for lunch. 

Now to the problems you may run into.

Problem 1, You: Most of papaya problems are your own doing or not doing.
Solution: Don’t make me send my wife over, she carries a wet squirrel in her purse. READ the directions. Secondly, most problems are caused by poor sanitation. Clean your tools with a solution of 1-part bleach, 9-parts water and a small drop of soap. When you trim off an infected leaf, clean your tools with bleach water before using it to remove another leaf. A spray bottle is an easy way to apply this to your tools. It adds time but may prevent the spread of disease. Thirdly, do not overwater. Papaya is tolerant, but it does not like extremes. Fourthly, aphids are fond of papaya and are a vector for disease transmission. Treat the plant with Neem Oil at first sign of aphid infestation.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/papaya_disease_poster.pdf 

Problem 2, Powdery Mildew: This is the result of poor air circulation and high humidity.
Solution: You can’t control the humidity but do what you can to improve the air circulation. At the first sign of powdery mildew, remove the infected leaves to prevent spreading. Spray the top and underside of the leaves with Neem Oil. This is an effective treatment that also controls powdery mildew, aphids and white fly.
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/powdery-mildew/ . 

Problem 3, Anthracnose: This is a fungal infection that is damaging to the fruit. The climate of Hawaiʻi is ideal to encourage infection. If you guessed humidity as the main culprit, you would be correct. Spread often is the result of garden tools. The disease often appears as a spot. As the spot grows, it will darken, and the flesh will sink under the spot.
Solution. There are chemical treatments; however, sanitation is usually just as effective. Keep your tools and the area clean. Don’t allow dead leaves to remain on the plant. Harvest the fruit when it starts to ripen, not when it is fully ripe. https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-103.pdf

Problem 4. Papaya ringspot virus (PRSV): This is the most serious disease of papaya, caused by a virus that is transmitted by aphids. The symptoms include yellowing with contrasting yellow veins, mottling and distortion of leaves, dark green streaks on stems and leaf stalks, and ring-shaped or C-shaped markings on fruits.
Solution. At the first sign of aphids on the plant, spray with Neem Oil. If the plant is fully infected with PRSV, take a picture, and contact your county extension agent. This disease nearly wiped-out Hawaiʻi’s papaya crop in the 1950s.
https://hdoa.hawaii.gov/pi/files/2013/01/npa02-03_prvmaui.pdf

Problem 5. Black Spot: As the name suggests, black spots will appear on the leaves and the fruits. It is a fungal disease. Initially, small brownish bruises appear on the upper side of leaves that eventually appear on the underside of the leaf as a black spot.
Solution. Proper spacing and airflow are the best way to avoid Black Spot. At first sign of the disease, carefully remove infected leaves and/or fruit to prevent spread of the disease and increase air circulation. Black Spot on the fruit is cosmetic and is safe to consume.
Black Spot of Papaya: How to Recognize and Manage it – UF/IFAS Extension St. Lucie County (ufl.edu)

Problem 6 Phytophthora blight: This is a disease that attacks the roots, stems and fruits of papaya. It usually occurs following extended periods of rain that saturate the soil and starve the plant of oxygen. The symptoms include wilting, yellowing and dying of leaves, dark brown lesions on stems and roots, and soft rotting of fruits. The infected plants may collapse or die.
Solution. Proper soil management improves drainage. Avoid over-watering.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-53.pdf 

I hope this rather dry information wasn’t too painful. It doesn’t cover everything there is to know about papaya. However, it should cover most issues you might encounter as a home gardener. Finally, I am always looking for topics of interest to my readers. If you have a suggestion for a future article, please leave it in the comments box.

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• Are you smarter than a rose beetle? Can you outrun a snail?
• The evil web of an avocado lace bug
• Getting under the skin of bulb onions
• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I thought I was behaving responsibly, washing the car without being asked. My mother came roaring out the front door as if she had just found a rattlesnake in the laundry basket.

“What are you doing?” she asked.

I thought it was obvious.

“Well, stop right this minute!” She shouted. “You know that the family picnic is tomorrow. If you wash the car, it will rain cats and dogs. So, stop!”

I did as I was told, thinking: “Adults! You can’t live with them, and can’t get supper without them.”

I don’t remember if it rained, but you may wonder what this has to do with gardening. Many gardeners are like my mother, holding strange superstitions. The problem is that superstitions and scientific methods get mixed together as if both have the same effectiveness.

I don’t know if planting root crops by the dark of the moon is best, or garden gnomes bring good luck to my garden, or talking to the bees encourages them to visit my garden. Still, I cling to many of the age-old superstitions. As far as I know, none of them do any harm until superstitions become the main guide for gardening.

As a Master Gardener, I share research-based information. Universities are not the only entity that conducts research. There is also what I call anecdotal research. It is information that has not been subjected to the rigors of empirical testing, but are the reports from thousands of gardeners, collected over many decades. 

Horticultural researchers publish articles that adhere to standards of academic writing. The focus often is on commercial farming. Applying five pounds of fertilizer per acre doesn’t translate well to a small home garden plot.

There are many articles on the Internet that appear to be based upon empirical, scientific research. However, not all have been peer reviewed by experts for accuracy.  Beware: The Internet is rife with people with some gardening ideas that sound compelling but can damage your plants. When in doubt, follow the science.

I am going to share four anecdotal techniques. Some of these techniques are supported by scientific literature. Others are only found in coffee shops where gardeners swap gardening stories about what works for them. The following are techniques shared by local gardeners. I have found them effective for controlling chewing garden pests. None of these methods use harmful chemicals, nor will they harm you or your plants. 

The chewing insects that I encounter most frequently in my yard are beetles, slugs, snails, ants and caterpillars. Not every technique works on every pest, but you will have four options from which to choose.

Chinese Rose Beetle: It is a scourge that gets up when I am calling it a day. While I have supper and watch a little television, the rose beetle is busy eating the leaves of my plants. You will know it was the rose beetle because the leaves will look like a lace doily. You could use chemicals, but that is not necessary. Rose beetles are like vampires, they don’t like the light. 

I don’t have any outdoor power for my yard, so I rely on solar lights. I use two different types. The first is the inexpensive walkway light. I place one or two around the plants where the beetles are feeding. The lights come on at sunset and the beetles go back to bed. The second is a solar string light. These lightweight LED strings can be wrapped around the entire plant. This is especially effective for taller plants. It is also looks festive. The drawback to solar lights is that on cloudy days, the batteries don’t fully charge and don’t last all night.

With the worry over rat lung disease, I absolutely do not want slugs feeding on my garden plants. There are many products that control slugs, but many use harsh chemicals. I don’t use anything on my edibles that may harm me.

What I do instead is invite the slugs over for a beer. I open several, “Free, All You Can Drink, Slugo Taverns” using empty tuna cans. I bury the tuna can so that the top edge of the can is even with the surrounding soil. I fill each with beer. If you don’t have beer, fill the can with water and add a package of yeast. The slugs love beer. Well, actually they love the yeast in the beer. As for me, it is all the vitamin B found in yeast that I like. Beer is just the most convenient way to get it. Slugs love the yeast so much that in the morning, I find the party slugs floating in the brew.

African snail: It has a voracious appetite. If a herd of them attacks your garden while you sleep, you may only have stems in the morning. Like slugs, there are many chemicals that control snails, and for the same reason, I don’t use them.

I have found that snails don’t like copper. When the snails try to cross copper, it apparently has the same effect as a person chewing on a piece of tinfoil. It is distinctly unpleasant. Unfortunately, I was not able to find any conductive copper foil tape locally and had to order it.

The great thing about foil tape is that it can be wrapped around the stem of the plant. A quick wrap of copper foil around the stem of pepper, eggplant or tomato plants protects the entire plant from snails and slugs. It also works well to wrap it around garden pots. Neither snails nor slugs will cross the copper foil. I recommend that you use at least 1” and preferably 2” copper foil to prevent large snails and slugs from arching over the top of it.

When I find slugs or snails lollygagging in my garden, I have a special treat for them. I keep a glass jar with 2 ounces of table salt mixed with 12 ounces of water. Salt is deadly to slugs and snails. I never touch slugs or snails with my bare hands. I use something to lift and carry them to the salt-water spa, and drop them in. When the jar is full, dump it on gravel or weeds. 

Diatomaceous earth, which is fossilized algae, is an effective product that controls insects. When an insect contacts the fine powder of Diatomaceous earth, its abrasive nature is like walking through a field of broken glass. The particles not only cut into the insect’s outer layer, but the particles also stick to them and dissolve their protective wax coating. The result is that the insect dehydrates and usually dies. It is especially effective against hard-shelled insects such as beetles and cockroaches as well as ants, slugs and snails.

Diatomaceous earth comes in two grades, one of which is food grade. It is a little more expensive, but if you want, you can mix it with water and drink it. I don’t recommend this unless you find out a lot more about Diatomaceous earth before drinking it with your morning toast. 

The easiest way to apply Diatomaceous earth is to sprinkle it on the soil around the plants and on the leaves. There are a couple of things that you need to know about Diatomaceous. First, it is indiscriminate. It kills both harmful and beneficial insects. Second, once it gets wet, it is no longer effective. Third, it is a fine powder. Wear a mask when applying it to prevent inhaling it.

With all these disadvantages, why use Diatomaceous earth? If all the pests only lived outdoors, I probably wouldn’t be recommending it. Because it won’t hurt the kids, the pets or me, I use it to protect my house plants and outdoor potted plants. In the house, ants are usually the only real pest, but they are annoying. A sprinkle or two of Diatomaceous earth around the plant usually clears my ant problem quickly.

Diatomaceous earth is also effective for controlling cockroaches. In the kitchen, sprinkle a thin layer of Diatomaceous earth along the edge of drawers, shelves and cabinets. It isn’t fast, but it nearly eliminates roaches and ants from the kitchen. 

My Aunt Agatha, who could find fault with the cleanliness of an operating room, visited us several years back. She wrinkled her nose and made several pointed comments about the deplorable condition of the kitchen. She swept in like Hurricane Iniki and wiped up every last grain of Diatomaceous earth. A couple days later, she grabbed me by the ear and dragged me into kitchen where she informed me that I had an ant problem. I nodded in agreement and mumbled, “Yes, Aunt Agatha, you are correct as always. I do have an aunt problem.”

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• The evil web of an avocado lace bug
• Getting under the skin of bulb onions
• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I was stretched out on my favorite chaise lounge, admiring the grass that needed mowing. I leaned back and casually looked up at the fluttering leaves of my avocado tree. Then I saw it. It wasn’t big. It wasn’t glaring. It was hardly noticeable, but I knew it was trouble. I leapt to my feet, shuffled over to a low-hanging branch, and turned over a new leaf. There they were — a convention of bugs sucking the life out of an innocent leaf.

Time for action. After years of “all speed no direction,” I have finally learned to take the time to identify the problem first. I retrieved my pruning shears. I clipped a couple of leaves and took them to my workbench in the garage. 

The first thing I noticed was little yellow patches in the middle of the upper surface of the leaf. In a few places the yellow patches surrounded a rust color as if that part of the leaf had died. I flipped the leaf over. Aha! There was the resident culprit, a bug. I wasn’t surprised; there is no shortage of bugs on Kauaʻi and the Big Island. 

I grabbed my trusty magnifying glass so that I could go eye-to-eye with the critters on the leaf. It was like a poster from a science fiction horror film. If I were an avocado tree, I would be shaking in fear, having something that looked like that crawling on me.

I recognized that creepy-crawly from a class on pest identification and management. It was an avocado lace bug. They are small. The adult is only about a sixteenth of an inch long. To the naked eye, they may look like course ground pepper. If you look carefully through a magnifying lens, you will notice the edge of the wings have a lacy appearance. Hence the name, lace bug.

Depending on the avocado cultivar, the lace bugs may do little harm to the tree. Treat the infestation as soon as you notice it. Lace bugs are prolific, and unsightly. If allowed to go unchecked, the avocado tree will start dropping leaves faster than this old man can rake them up.

The lace bug is a soft bodied insect, which are not difficult to treat if you can reach them. Hopefully, your avocado tree isn’t 25 feet tall. The second issue is that they live on the underside of the leaf, which can be an advantage. Third, you should spray every leaf that is infected. How many leaves are on an avocado tree? Aaargh!

Attack Method 1: Take the garden hose with a high-pressure spray nozzle and wash them off. This doesn’t kill them, but it does remove them from doing more damage while you prepare an arsenal that will knock the little varmints dead. Don’t forget to bring a towel! From bitter experience I have learned that there are two things my wife doesn’t like in her kitchen: a wet dog and a wet husband.

Attack Method 2: Insecticidal soap is effective on all soft-bodied insects (aphids, scales, thrips). It kills the bug without harming the tree. Be assured that if your cat, dog or kids come in contact with the leaves after you have sprayed, it should not harm them. 

There are several name brands of insecticidal soap, which generally sell for about $10 for a 16-ounce bottle. They all seem to perform equally well. I prefer to make my own. It is easy, inexpensive, and you should have enough to treat an avocado tree swarming with lace bugs. Be certain that you read and follow the directions on the bottle before applying.

Insecticidal soaps kill by suffocation. The soap can also disrupt the cellular membranes of the insect, and removes waxes that cover the insect, which results in dehydration. Note that insecticidal soap is only effective while wet. 

Insecticidal soap must coat the insect’s body to be effective. You should apply it generously, but not so heavily that it is cascading off the leaves. Spray the underside of the leaves where the lace bug lives. Insecticidal soap doesn’t kill immediately upon contact. Rather, the soap causes the bug to suffocate and/or dehydrate and die. 

Not all soaps are created equal when it comes to making an effective insecticidal soap. The safest, and in my opinion, the best option, is to use real soap from your great grandmother’s time. These traditional soaps have three basic ingredients: animal fat, water and lye. There are many of these available. However, don’t use one that has perfumes or moisturizers added. Pure Castile soaps are a generic liquid soap that does not have additives, perfumes and they don’t foam. One quart will make 24 gallons of insecticidal soap. You should be able to find at least one brand of Castile soap on Kauaʻi or the Big Island. 

You want water that is clean. Lace bugs don’t know the difference between Perrier and tap water. So, use tap water, and let it warm in the sunshine before continuing. Soap mixes better when the water is warm. Of course, you already knew that.

A quart bottle with a spray attachment works quite well if you can reach the infected leaves. If upper leaves are infected, you need a safe way to treat them. A pump sprayer works nicely. However, if your tree is tall, it may not get the topmost leaves. A word of caution: don’t use a sprayer that you have used with herbicides. Also, don’t spray late in the day or during the hottest time of the day.

Mix one tablespoon of soap per one quart of water. I like to add a teaspoon of canola or olive oil per quart into my mixture. However, you will see those that advise against this. The reason I add the oil is to help the soapy mix cling to the underside of the leaves a little better. 

You may also wonder if you can use commercial dish soap? It depends on who you ask. Generally, I say be very careful about the soap you use. You will find many Internet recipes that recommend dish detergent.  The components in dish detergents that remove crusty food from plates and burnt-on gunk from cooking pans may be too strong and potentially harmful to the tree. If you use a commercial dish detergent, spray it on a few leaves that are infected. Wait a day and check to see if the insects are dead and the tree has not been damaged. 

Caveat: Home-made insecticidal soaps do not meet the EPA pesticide criteria. However, it is being used as such, and must be treated with the same care as any pesticide. It is important that you never exceed a concentration level of 1% to 2%, or approximately 2 tablespoons per quart. More is not better. You risk damaging the plant if you don’t measure carefully.

Attack Method 3. Neem oil is an effective insecticide. It is also safe. It won’t hurt you, pets or birds if ingested. Before you begin applying Neem oil, read the directions carefully. It is a pesticide and must be applied so as not to harm the plant or beneficial insects. When you spray Neem oil, do it early in the day when the bad bugs are feeding, and the good bugs are waiting for the late-morning wakeup call.

Neem oil acts as a repellent. Bugs apparently don’t like the taste of leaves that have been sprayed with Neem oil and won’t eat them. It also interferes with the bug’s ability to lay eggs and grow. It is an ideal oil to use in your insecticidal soaps. Caveat: I think it is stinky and tastes awful if the wind is blowing it back in my face.

Neem oil is most effective when it covers the lace bug. However, because it is an oil, its effectiveness lasts much longer than insecticidal soap. You can use the same sprayer that you used for the insecticidal soap. With either insecticidal soap or Neem oil, use protective eye wear. It irritates the eyes, and stings like the dickens.

As we learned in fifth grade, oil and water don’t mix. Preparing Neem oil for use requires an emulsifier. Soap is an effective emulsifying agent, especially when the Neem oil is added to warm water. There is no exact ratio of Neem oil to soap and water because Neem oils come in different strengths. The container should tell you how much Neem oil to add to 1 gallon of water. I then add an identical amount of soap and mix until everybody gets to know everybody else.

A last bit of wisdom about Neem oil: clean the sprayer thoroughly when you finish. If you fail to do this, says the voice of experience, you may be going to the garden shop for a new sprayer.

Water, insecticidal soap, and Neem oil are the three effective and inexpensive ways to treat Lace bug infections. They are not the only ways, of course. However, I am confident that the three attack strategies I have provided will solve the problem.

It is time to get rid of my avocado lace bugs. My wife is pressurizing the sprayer and is about ready to spray the avocado tree. I better move my chaise lounge under the mango tree to avoid an unfortunate encounter with a mean stream of Neem.

References

• Bond, C.; Buhl, K.; Stone, D. 2012. “Neem Oil General Fact Sheet” National Pesticide Information Center, Oregon State University Extension Services.
• Borden, Matthew A. and Dale, Adam G. 2019. “Managing Plant Pests with Soaps” University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.
• Hahn, Jeffrey. 2019. “Lace Bugs” University of Minnesota Extension.
• Master Class. 2023. “How to Mix Neem Oil for Plants: DIY Natural Insecticide Spray”
• Williamson, Joey. 2021. “Less Tox Insecticides”. Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service.
• Wright, Mark. 2020. “Avocado Lace Bugs in Hawaiʻi” University of Hawaii. CTAHR.

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• Getting under the skin of bulb onions
• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I remember the day I proposed to my wife. It was a beautiful spring day, the birds were singing, and nearby, a happy little stream was chuckling a merry tune. I knelt and slid an engagement ring on her finger. She started crying.

I don’t remember if it was because she was so happy, or because it was a pungent Awahia onion ring that I slipped onto her finger?

I have found onions challenging to grow on Kauaʻi. Don’t tell the Board of Tourism, but we don’t get enough sunlight in Hawaiʻi. The longest day of the year is only 13½ hours.

Many varieties of onions scoff at such short days regardless of how sunny those days may be. Many varieties of onions like those long, summer days found in the cool, northern latitudes. If you mistakenly plant these on Kauaʻi, in all probability you will be disappointed with the outcome.

This doesn’t mean that you can’t grow onions in Hawaiʻi. It is important when purchasing onion seeds to select a short-day variety. This variety produces nicely in the state. Some are ready for harvest in as little as 3 months. 

Onions have their own sun clock. When the magic number of sunlight hours is reached, the onion stops producing green growth and begins to form a bulb. The short-day onions require less than 12 hours of sunlight to begin bulb production, which makes them ideal for growing in Hawaiʻi.

When buying seeds, it is important to determine the day-length requirements. The shorter, the better. Many seed distributors include this information on the back of the package. The following example is taken from information provided on a packet of Johnny’s Seeds.

Madalyn Onion. Yellow short-day onion for the South. Excellent uniformity and good bolt tolerance. Dense, jumbo-size bulbs with globe shape. Vigorous foliage. Mild flavor with a touch of heat. For fall planting/spring harvest in the South. Early midseason maturity. Best for short storage.

Once you have selected your onion seeds, follow the seed packet planting instructions. The information is specific to that onion variety. Remember: your garden is only as good as your soil. Take the time to prepare a well-drained, sandy loam soil, that is high in organic matter (compost). 

Keeping your onions well-watered is critical. Onions have a shallow root system that requires 1 inch of water per week.  The more water, the milder the taste. Onions also need a snack several times during the growing season if you want robust onion bulbs. Fertilize with manure, compost, or a balanced fertilizer, e.g., 16-16-16 or 10-10-10.

Finally, after months of patience and TLC, it is time to harvest. Yeah! Liver or tofu and onions for everyone! When the onion necks become soft and the floppy, green tops are falling over, pluck the onions from the soil. Unless you plan to eat all the onions at one meal, it is best to allow them to stretch out on the lānai and sun-cure for a couple of days. 

Hopefully, you will have more onions that you can eat in a short time. It is time to store the extra onions. Depending on where you live, finding a dry, cool place to store your harvest may be challenging. My garage, which has never seen the wheels of a car, is where I string up my onions.

Some people braid the stems together. I use fishing line to loop around the onion stem. I can then hang them where they are not touched by sunlight with a gentle tropical breeze flowing about them. The gentle breeze, or airflow if you prefer, is critical if you don’t want the onion to turn into a rotting, stinking mess. To help you remember: Breeze, Cool, Dark are the rules for onion storage. 

You do not want to store onions in the refrigerator. It is a chemistry thing involving sugars and starches and temperature.  It is not just the fact that onions have thin skins that make them susceptible to the cold, but because extended cold can cause the onion to soften and spoil.

Some people have told me to peel the onion under running water. I don’t like wasting water. You have heard of “cool as a cucumber.” But change that to, remember “cool as an onion.”  I just made that up. I toss the onion in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes to chill it out. Cool onions are not as aggressive tear makers as a warm onion.

While the onion is chilling, I sharpen my knife. A sharp knife seems to produce less tear-making vapors. Finally, according to my wife, I should cut from the top to the bottom. I don’t know why. I didn’t ask. I don’t care. I just do it.

I have only peeled off the top layer of onion skin in this article. It should be enough information for you to successful grow bulb onions in Hawaiʻi. 

I can’t help myself. One last groaner. My wife found me in the kitchen crying the other day. I held up an onion that I had just eviscerated for French Onion soup, and said: “These are tears of happiness.”

Recommended Varieties: The University of Hawaiʻi provided the following list of recommended short-day varieties for Hawaiian gardeners. Granex 33, Yellow Granex hybrid, Mercedes, Rio Bravo, Rio Zorro, Cougar, Sweet Sunrise, Jaguar, Awahia (pungent), Monsoon and Savannah Sweet.

References:

• Randall Hamasaki Hector Valenzuela Robin Shimabuku, Editors. Bulb Onion Production in Hawaiʻi. College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa. 1999. Pg. 6.

• Jack Tanaka 1960. Awahia: A New Pungent Onion for Hawaiʻi. Hawaiʻi Farm Science Agricultural Science Progress Quarterly. Vol. 9, No. 2.  College of Tropical Agriculture, University of Hawaiʻi. 

• K. Y Takeda, S. K. Fukuda, and R. Hamasaki. Koba Green Onion. University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources.

• Kenneth Y. Takeda and Richard T. Sakuoka.  Onions-Bulb and Green Bunching. CTAHR Fact Sheet, Garden Vegetable No. 16. University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa, January 1997.

• National Onion Association.  www.onions-usa.org. 

• Sweetser, Robin. 2018. Onion Planting and Harvesting Tips. https://www.almanac.com/growing-onions

• Johnny’s Seed Company. https://www.johnnyseeds.com

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• Choosing a fertilizer of your lawn and plants
• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

There were two aisles of shelves piled with every imaginable size of bag, box and bottle.  There was all-purpose fertilizer, liquid fertilizer, lawn fertilizer, tomato fertilizer, orchid fertilizer and on and on, and on.  There were more types of fertilizer than Carter’s Little Liver pills. 

I’m not one to make snap decisions. Besides, my feet were hurting. I grabbed several boxes and small bags of fertilizer and wandered over to the lawn furniture. I dropped down into a comfortable chaise lounge and began reading the labels.  

Yep, it was far worse than I first suspected. It didn’t take long before I was on information overload. When this happens, I have a sure-fire method of taming the demon: I ponder the plethora of information with my eyes closed. Closed eyes limits external distractions and helps me focus.  

I nearly had everything sorted when a nice young employee nudged me: “Sir, you can’t sleep here.”

I wiped my sand-filled eyes and answered indignantly:  “I’ll have you know that I wasn’t sleeping. I was conducting research on the best fertilizer for my garden. I was judiciously appraising and compartmentalizing the glut of minuscule inorganic components found in these commercial specimens to corroborate the veracity of their labels.” 

The withering look I received said: “Yah, right, you are just another prevaricating old geezer.” 

Guilt and embarrassment convinced me that I should purchase at least one bag of fertilizer before I left.

Here is what I learned while in my reflective, closed-eye inquiry. In general, fertilizers consist of three essential elements: (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorous and (K) potassium. 

Each has a specific use by the plant. Nitrogen promotes leaf growth; phosphorus encourages the development of roots, flowers, seeds and fruit; and potassium, often called potash, improves stem growth, and water and nutrients movement in plants. 

This is good general information, but it doesn’t tell how to select the best fertilizer for a specific use. Vegetables require different nutrients than a lawn. Then, just to add insult to injury, I learned that the fertilizer I use should complement the composition of the soil. I never thought I would have to be a matchmaker between soil and fertilizer. 

Egad, gardening is tricky. I soon learned that a soil test is the best way to know your soil and which nutrients your vegetables, flowers and lawn need. Your county extension office offers this service. There also are many home test kits available at garden shops and online. 

Lawns: A fertilizer that contains a high percentage of nitrogen promotes a thick, green turf of which you can be proud. However, nitrogen is quickly absorbed by grass and is further depleted by water. 

Without getting too technical, the lawn may need phosphorous, but usually not much. Phosphorous is relatively stable.  Most healthy lawns have an adequate amount of phosphorous in the soil. Excess phosphorous with overwatering or heavy rains can leech into the ecosystem and cause damage. If possible, use a fertilizer that has little or no phosphorus when fertilizing the lawn, e.g. (27-0-2). A non-phosphorus commercial fertilizer will build a lush, green lawn while reducing the impact on the surrounding ecosystem. 

Potassium is essential in helping the plant metabolize nitrogen and other nutrients that assure a healthy plant. Low potassium levels often show the same signs as low nitrogen. The grass will become necrotic (yellow) and be less dense. Most commercial fertilizers have enough potassium to supply adequate potassium for the soil. The good thing about potassium is that too much will not harm your lawn.

There are several variables to consider about the frequency of fertilizer application on a lawn.  Each island of Hawaiʻi has many microclimates with distinct variations in rainfall, temperature and humidity. On the rainier and cooler North shores, it may be necessary to fertilize more frequently than on the drier and hotter West side. 

How often?  There is not a perfect answer. It is time to fertilize when the grass loses its deep green color, more weeds are invading the lawn (a thick, healthy lawn often chokes out many types of weeds), or mowing is required less often. Most literature recommends fertilizing every 6 to 8 weeks during the prime growing season.

A final word on fertilizing the lawn.  There are different schools of thought on mowing or not mowing before fertilizing. Mowing the lawn before fertilizing seems the most sensible. This removes excess grass and allows the fertilizer to reach the soil easier. 

Apply the fertilizer during a cool time of the day. Once the fertilizer is applied, you will need to water. Commercial fertilizers need to dissolve before they can be absorbed by the lawn.  Caveat! Follow the directions on the bag. Applying too much fertilizer may burn your lawn.

If you’re interested in local research and recommendations on turf care, check out the University of Hawaiʻi’s Turfgrass Management Lab’s website.

Vegetable Gardens: Most gardens have two types of plants: flowering and non-flowering.  The best fertilizer to use for each type of plant is easy to determine. The fruit of flowering plants is eaten (tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, etc.). The leaves or roots of non-flowering plants are eaten (lettuce, chard, carrots, potatoes, etc.).  

Flowering plants require a fertilizer that has a higher percentage of phosphorous that encourages the plant to flower and set fruit. Depending on the product, the numbers will vary.  However, you should see something like 3-5-3 or 4-6-3.

Non-flowering plants require a higher nitrogen fertilizer. They don’t, however, need to be as high as the nitrogen levels used on a lawn. Depending on the brand, you will see NPK values of 10-0-5 or 15-5-5.  Many local gardeners believe a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) works best for these plants. To keep your garden eco-friendly, construct barricades around the garden to prevent contamination by the unabsorbed fertilizer from running off during heavy rains.

Liquid and Granular Fertilizers: The next question: Do I use a liquid or granular fertilizer? 

This is a complicated question. The short answer is that they both work but in a slightly different way. A liquid fertilizer should not be applied until the plant is established, which is generally two weeks after germination. The liquid fertilizer is immediately available and easily absorbed by the plant. 

The plant can absorb a liquid fertilizer through its leaves as well as its roots. For the plant, it is like guzzling a high-caffeine energy drink. Like the energy drink, the effects don’t last long. Liquid fertilizers don’t provide nourishment for more than a couple of weeks. When using a liquid fertilizer, you will need to pay close attention. Either fertilize at regular intervals or wait and fertilize when the plants show signs of nutrient deficiencies. (See handout on Plant Nutrient Deficiencies)

Granular fertilizers are fast or slow release. Both must be dissolved by water before they can sink into the soil.  Only then can they be absorbed through the plant’s roots. After applying the fertilizer, it is necessary to water to start the dissolving process. Because the fertilizer granules dissolve at variable rates, their nutrients are available to plants for a longer period of time.  Depending on water availability, absorption begins within a few days. Maximum absorption generally occurs in a couple of weeks and then tapers off slowly.  

The second fertilizing of vegetables should be applied as a side-dressing when the plant begins to blossom. Loosen the soil in a circular pattern three to four inches out from the stem to the plant’s drip line to a depth of one to two inches. Be careful to not damage the roots.  Sprinkle the fertilizer and work into the soil with a trowel or your hand. 

It is also easy to apply too much fertilizer and ‘burn’ the plant.  There is no Goldilocks’ formula, but usually, not more than one tablespoon of fertilizer per plant evenly distributed in the loosened soil is adequate. 

With either liquid or granular fertilize, rain, temperature and plant size are factors that dictate how often to apply fertilizers. With granular fertilizer, every six to eight weeks is the general rule. For liquid fertilizers, every two weeks is usually adequate. As with any chemicals you use in your yard, read the label for the legal guidelines and more in-depth instructions.

Conclusion: I have touched on only the basics of using a commercial fertilizer. There is so much more to know. 

As Alexander Pope stated: “A little learning is a dangerous thing,” but the more you know, the more you grow.  As for me, I am heading out to the garden shop.  If you see a gray-haired geezer resting on a chaise lounge with his eyes closed, know that I am not sleeping but merely reviewing my research data.

References:

Deputy, Jay. 2000. Turf Fertilizers for Hawaii’s Landscapes, TM-13. College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. University of Hawai’i. 

Mahfuz, Rahman, February 2022. “Plant Pathology” West Virginia University 

Xinxiang Xu, et.al. 2020. Effects of Potassium Levels on Plant Growth, Accumulation and Distribution of Carbon, and Nitrate Metabolism in Apple Dwarf Rootstock Seedlings.  State Key Laboratory of Crop Biology, College of Horticulture Science and Engineering, Shandong Agricultural University, Tai’an, China.  

Yankee Publishing, Inc., 2022. How and When to Fertilize Your Vegetable Garden. 

Editor’s Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

Other gardening columns by Tom Timmons:

• The KISS method of composting
• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I always get carried away with projects. My mother would swat me on the back of the head and say, “Keep It Simple, Stupid!,” also known as KISS. That is the trouble with much of the composting literature: it just ain’t simple.

Then there is the flip side that makes it so simple that it is stupid. Hopefully, I blend complexity with simplicity to give you the right information to build a Goldilocks’ compost pile.

Composting can take weeks or years. It all depends on the method used. Fast, three to four weeks, will not be as rich in nutrients as a slower method. However, my garden needs the compost now! Like I told the nice policeman the other day, “At my age it isn’t speeding, it’s time management.” 

Composting requires four basic components: carbon, nitrogen, water and air. There is not a shortage of these in Hawaiʻi. Sun or shade makes little difference. What does make a difference is the size of the material you put into the pile. Small breaks down faster than big. 

To successfully compost quickly, there needs to be an appropriate ratio of carbon rich material to nitrogen rich material. This is where the literature forgets KISS, but I won’t. 

All sources agree that there should be a specific ratio of carbon to nitrogen. Well, duh, unless you paid attention in Algebra class, how do you determine this ratio? Simple, use KISS. Gather equal volumes of carbon (C) and nitrogen (N) materials: a pail of brown stuff (C) and a pail of green stuff (N).

Sources vary on how much C and N is needed to establish the correct ratio. Some suggest a 1:1 ratio, or equal volume of C and N. Another suggests as 3:2 ratio, or for every three gallons of C, add two gallons of N. Caveat, this is the KISS method, a compost purist may scoff at the simplification. However, like my rusted-out island cruiser, I got to work just like my boss in his fancy rust-free BMW.

The compost purest will tell you that each of these materials has a specific C:N ratio that you need to consider. My KISS solution to this mathematical nightmare is the same complex formula I use to decide whether I should have one or two peanut butter and pecan cookies with one cup of coffee.

As you gather material, keep the C and N in separate piles. This is important because you are going to build a multi-decker compost sandwich. The little microorganisms are going to love you. Sounds goofy, but the microorganisms do the heavy lifting during the compost process. When you finish gathering, you should have enough material to build a really big compost sandwich. You should be able to hear the little microorganisms smacking their lips.

Remember size matters, small is best. Those branches and twigs need to be cut to approximately ½ to 2 inches in length. Rip the leaves, paper and cardboard to shreds. Pretend you are making confetti for a celebration. 

A good compost pile is engaged in vigorous aerobic exercise. It needs to huff and puff to warm up. There are more suggestions than Carter has little liver pills on how to do this. Keeping with the KISS model, the bottom of the pile is branches and sticks.  Don’t use those short pieces of wood that you spent so much time and effort cutting. These will be used in the upper part of the pile to create free air space. 

The size of the branches on the bottom layer is not critical. What is important is that there is enough loose mass to allow air to enter the bottom of the pile.  As the compost pile warms, it will create a chimney effect that will pull the air through the entire pile. 

This base layer should be approximately 6 to 10 inches deep. If you don’t have enough branches and twigs, pile dried leaves on top to get the needed depth.  Cover the layer with about 1 inch of soil. Spritz the layer with water until wet, but not soggy.

The next layer is a N layer. This layer is going to get hot and help warm the entire pile. Manure is like a furnace that generates a lot of heat. A 2-to-4-inch layer of chicken, horse or cow manure should suffice. Remember: For health reasons, NO dog, cat, pig or human waste. To help reduce the odor, cover it entirely with green leaves. Your neighbors will thank you.

How fresh the manure is determines how much water you need to spritz on this layer. If it is fresh, no additional water may be needed. If it is older, wet to soften. Cover the layer with an inch of soil and spritz.

The next layer is a C layer. This is where the chopped sticks, dried leaves, shredded cardboard, and paper are used.  This layer needs to be porous to allow the heat from the manure layer to rise through it. This layer is about 4 inches thick and should completely encase the underlying N layer so that every bit of heat is trapped and rises through it. Cover with a layer of soil and spritz. 

The next N layer is a good place to use grass clippings and green leaves. Grass clippings tend to mat together. Mixing the green leaves and eggshells into the clippings helps reduce this problem. Also, to avoid attracting unwanted critters, don’t add meat, bones, cheese or citrus peels.  Again, this layer is about 4 inches thick. Cover with a layer of soil and spritz the area. Remember, wet but not soggy.

Time for another C layer.  Use more of the short twigs, shredded paper and cardboard. Cover with dirt and spritz.

The next N level is where I dump kitchen scraps. These tend to break down quickly. Feel free to toss in grass clippings and green leaves. Cover with dirt and lightly spritz. If you have done everything correctly, the pile will heat quickly. This helps keeps the rats and roaches playing pinochle in the neighbor’s garage.

By now you see the pattern: C layer, soil, N layer, soil. Continue building until you use all the material. Always finish by topping the pile with a layer of brown leaves. They are the chimney that allows rising heat to exit. They also serve another purpose. They work like shingles on your roof by keeping excess rain moisture from penetrating the pile. 

Some say do, and others say don’t, cover the pile with a tarp. Because I live on a rainy part of the island, I tarp the pile. Too much water will kill the composting process. During the dry season, I need to spritz the pile. Too little water will slow the composting process.

You are probably thinking, “Ah, I’m done. I think I will binge a Netflix series.” Wrong, wrong, wrong. Get your gloves. The pile needs to be aerated, a little CPR if you like for the compost pile. Aeration is just a fancy word for flipping the pile, and it is work. 

Before flipping it the first time, it is best to let the pile heat thoroughly. How often you flip the pile thereafter is a hotly debated issue. Regardless of your decision, someone is going to tell you that you are wrong. The right or wrong of your choice depends on how quickly you want finished compost. The KISS answer is that the more frequently the pile is flipped, the quicker the compost finishes. However, a quicker process sacrifices some of the nutrients that will be present in a slower composting process.

Quick composting is hard work that in time will reward you with the bounty of a luxurious garden. As Master Po might say: “Grasshopper, in the seeking of this knowledge, know patience.”

References and Additional Information.

I have included both research based and professional gardening articles for those who want to “dig deeper” into the compost.

• Compost for the Home Garden
• The Rapid Composting Method
• Composting and Mulching
• Composting Ratio: What Is the Right Number?
• 21 Best Carbon Sources for Composting
• The Essential Role of the Carbon – Nitrogen Ratio in Compostion
• Here’s What Not to Put in Compost to Avoid a Contaminated Bin

Editorʻs Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons, a certified Master Gardener living on Kaua’i.

Other columns by Tom Timmons:

• Why should you play in the dirt?
• Basil – the royal herb

I planted my first garden on Kauaʻi in dirt. I doted on my tomatoes. I gave them water. I gave them fertilizer. I sang to them. And, I gave them my heart. But in return, they gave me nothing but heartbreak and disappointment. I felt just like I did in eighth grade when Scarlet Green returned my Valentine and told me to get lost.

I was preparing my second garden, when my neighbor stopped me and said: “Your garden will grow better in soil.”

I gave him the same look I reserved for a centipede crawling across my right foot. Dirt, snirt, soil, smoil; what is the big deal? Well, it is a big deal!

Simply put, dirt is dead soil or at least soil on its last organic breath. It contains rocks, sand, clay and other inorganic components. Simply put, dirt cannot sustain life, well, not the type of life you want growing in your garden. On Kauaʻi it is rare to find pure dirt, but poor soil is abundant.

As a home gardener, you want the best possible soil. The quality of your garden is only going to be as good as the soil in which you grow. For you to eat healthy plants from your garden, your plants must dine on healthy soil.

You can start with a soil test, but really, are you going to do this? Probably not. Let’s just get to the fun part, playing in the dirt to make soil. Gloves are optional. 

Step No. 1: Killing weeds in your garden plot involves little effort. With a weed whacker or a lawn mower, cut the weeds as close to the ground as possible. Remove the weed debris and take it to the green waste site. 

Step No. 2: Weeds don’t give up without a fight. It is a good idea to kill the roots of the weeds — and everything else that may thrive in poor soil that can harm your garden plants. Before starting weed extermination, soak the ground so it is wet for at least a foot deep.

Step No. 3: Weeds and many soil pathogens can be destroyed without chemicals using a technique called solarization. That is right. You are going to let the big, yellow guy in the sky do the dirty work. 

Step No. 4: Cover the growing area with a clear plastic tarp and secure it. You may be tempted to use black plastic. The fact is that transparent plastic allows all the solar energy to pass through and kills the weeds quicker than black plastic. Depending on the time of year, and the weather, you should have a sterile planting area in three to four weeks. If you have weeds on steroids, e.g. Guinea Grass, you may have to repeat this process.

Step No. 5: Remove the plastic, get your shovel and turn the dirt to a depth of at least eight inches. Break up any clods and rake them smooth. When you are finished, you should be able to dig a nice hole in the dirt with your bare hands. 

Nope, don’t plant yet. Your garden plot is not yet ready for plants. You have sterile dirt, not soil. Remember that dirt is not capable of sustaining plant life. 

Step No. 6: You need to bring the dirt to life. To do this, add compost to the dirt and thoroughly work it in. Generally, you want about three parts soil to one part compost. Do not plant directly into the compost. This may damage or kill the plant.

If you need to purchase compost at a garden shop, it can be a bit pricey. You may wish to reduce the garden size until you are able to make your own compost. I will cover the basics of composting in the next article.

Compost is a gourmet meal for your plants. It has all the things that dirt lacks. Compost contains the essential plant nutrients of nitrogen (N), potassium (P) and phosphorus (K). Unlike many commercial fertilizers, compost is also rich in micronutrients — sulfur, carbon, magnesium and many others. An additional benefit is compost is rich in micro-organisms. Micro-organisms are essential in helping the plant’s roots uptake nutrients.

Many plants like neutral to slightly acidic soil that has a pH of less than 7.0. Compost helps regulate the soil’s pH. This can be important especially if you live in an area that receives air-borne salt particles from the ocean. 

Soil without adequate organic components tend to be dense. Plants can drown in dense soil. Compost helps retain soil moisture without giving the plant wet feet. Compost allows excess water to drain away from the roots, allowing air to remain in the soil. It is important to remember that like us, plants also need oxygen. 

Step No. 7: Finally, you get to plant in your new soil. Read the label. Seed labels contain many important growing facts: seed spacing and depth, days for germination, soil pH preference, soil type, lighting requirements and number of days to harvest. 

Step No. 8: You have worked hard. It is time to go toes-up on your favorite chaise lounge with a glass of iced tea. Ahh! There is nothing better than a well-deserved reward for a job well done.

In the next article, I will cover ways to make your own compost. It is a great way to get rid of green waste without a trip to the transfer station. It may not be as fun as playing in the dirt, but you are helping Mother Earth recycle. You take care of Mother Earth, and she will take care of you.

Reference and Additional Resources:

• Fertilizer for the Home Garden by Wade W. McCall
• Soil Solarization as an Organic Pre-Emergent Wee-Management Tactic by Josiah Marquez and Koon-Hui Wang
• Is it Dirt or Soil by Aaron Moore
• Weed Control Without Chemicals by David Beaulieu

Editorʻs Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

For more information about the Kaua‘i Master Gardener program, click here.

Ah! The skies clear, the sun shines warmly, and all is well in my little old-man world. I understand now why it is sometimes called the royal herb or the holy herb.

Basil is magnificently fragrant. 

Different varieties emphasize different fragrances: lemon, licorice, lime or cinnamon.  Regardless of the variety of basil, it will add character, charm and subtle magic to your cuisine.  Fortunately, growing basil is easy and does not demand that you use different techniques for different varieties.

Basil has a large root system. When selecting a pot, choose one that allows the roots to grow laterally (widely) rather than deeply. Don’t forget: the pot needs weep holes at the bottom that allows excess moisture to drain off. 

Fill the pot with a quality potting soil that is slightly damp. Compact it slightly. Cover the seeds with about a quarter inch of soil and tamp it down, but not too tightly. 

During the germination period, I use a spray bottle to keep the soil moist but not wet. It is important to remember that basil is a tropical herb — you know, palm trees gently swaying in a warm breeze with smiling sun overhead. Try to find a little tropical spot that is warm and sunny in your house, on the deck or on the lanai. 

Like all herbs, basil will need at least 6 plus hours of sunlight to grow successfully. If all goes well, in 10 days or less you will have little basil sprouts. Although I prefer growing in a pot, growing basil in the garden is easy because basil is tough. Even a lazy gardener with little knowledge can grow basil in the garden.

However, growing does not mean quality or quantity. So, let’s do it right and enjoy some quality basil! Dig a hole about 18 inches in circumference and 8 inches deep. I add compost and organic matter to the soil. 

Thoroughly mist the soil so that it is uniformly damp before refilling the hole. I leave a small hole where I put a four-inch pot.  Fill all around it, remove the pot and add commercial potting soil. This is where I plant the seeds. Just in case I got the soil a little too wet, I don’t plant until the next morning to let the water drain. 

Plant the seeds about a quarter inch deep. Until the seeds germinate, use a spray bottle to keep the soil moist. Since you are outside, you cannot control the rain or temperature.

In Hawai’i, the temperature shouldn’t be a problem. But during certain times of the year, it seems as if it will never stop raining. Anticipate the seasonal weather to choose your planting date.

Basil likes a good meal now and then before it becomes a good meal. If you are growing in pots, you probably need to add a bit of fertilizer once a month. In the garden, add fertilizer every couple of weeks.

I don’t recommend using dry, commercial fertilizers. I seem to get the best results from top dressing the soil with compost or using compost tea and worm castings. Liquid fertilizers such as MiracleGro and Fox Farm are good choices, or purchase your personal favorite.  Look at the label and choose one that has more Nitrogen (N) than Potassium (P) and Phosphorous (K); nitrogen is normally the first number when three are listed (example, 4-4-4).  Remember, nitrogen encourages leafy growth which is the part you want to harvest. 

Downy mildew can be a problem with basil. It appears first on the lower leaves of the plant and moves quickly up the plant. The top surface of the leaf turns yellow, and the underside of the leaf will have a gray fuzz. There is no magic elixir that will get rid of it. Remove and destroy the plant.

Prevention is the key. When purchasing seeds check the label or the seed catalog for DMR. This indicates that the seeds are resistant to downy mildew. Plant in an area that receives plenty of direct sunlight and has good airflow. You and your basil will be happy. 

Basil always thought it would be happier if it just had pretty flowers. It may be happier, but you won’t be happy with the bitter taste of the leaves if you allow it to flower. When the plant produces its first flower bud, pinch it off. Basil also does better if you prune it regularly. 

Basil seems to relish the attention of having its leaves clipped. Regular clipping not only gives you fresh basil for salads and cooking, but it also stimulates the plant’s growth.

Don’t trim as if you are Jack the Ripper; you can damage the plant. Where you snip is important but snip often, so the plant doesn’t get too big.  Pick a stem that has multiple buds (a grouping of leaves with a stem both above and below) and cut back from the top leaf bud to the lowest leaf bud that attaches to another stem. 

A word of warning: don’t use your wife’s good sewing scissors for pruning unless you have a death wish by slow, twisted, diabolical methods that would make Satan cringe in horror.

I am using trimming, pruning and harvesting of herbs synonymously. In Hawai’i, if you take care of the plant, it lives for quite a long time. Unless you have a big family, you probably will have more basil than you can use. 

Drying is the most common way of preserving basil, but freezing it is the best way of preserving the fresh-picked flavor of basil. I always give some to my neighbors. This is a bit self-serving, but rewarding. Sometimes they will bring me a generous helping of whatever they put the basil in. 

What poet Robert Frost should have said: “Good basil, makes good neighbors.”

Nutritionally, basil is terrific.  According to WebMd, “Basil contains many vitamins and minerals, as well as antioxidants such as lutein, zeaxanthin, beta-carotene and beta-cryptoxanthin. Many of basil’s health benefits come from these antioxidants, as well as its essential oils.” 

So, get with it: plant some basil seeds and begin enjoying all the benefits of fresh basil.

References:

• Belsinger, Susan and Tucker, Arthur. Grow Your Own Herbs. Kindle Ed. Timber Press, Portland, Oregon. 2019.
• Editors: The Old Farmersʻ Almanac. “Growing Basil: Planting, Growing and Harvesting Basil.” www.almanac.com/plant/basil. 2021
• Green, Benjamin. Growing Herbs for the Beginner. Kindle ed. 2016. 
• Schuh, Marissa and Grabowski, Michelle. “Basil Downy Mildew.” https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/basil-downy-mildew#resistant-varieties-1217710. 2022.
• Therapeutic Research Faculty. “Basil – Uses, Side Effects, and More.”  https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-303/basil. 2020.

Editorʻs Note: Every other week, Big Island Now will feature a guest gardening column by Tom Timmons. He is a certified Master Gardener respected for his gardening experience, but his views are not necessarily those of the University of Hawai‘i.

For more information about the Kaua‘i Master Gardener program, click here.